I have been hoping to see one of these very elusive animals now for many years, but never seem to be in the correct place at the right time, in fact I am sure I have missed glimpses of them and been very close at times, but to this day they have been hiding from me.

Since the replanting of many forest of our native trees the chances to see this wonderful animal are much better, and since the 80’s it has been made illegal to kill a Pine Marten. The Pine Marten is a very shy animal and you are only likely to see them at dusk or during the night when they prefer to hunt, they like to hunt small mammals and birds but have a very sweet tooth for jam and also peanut butter, so armed with a jar of Jam peanuts and some bread I ventured off to the Western Isles to stay in a Loch side cottage for one week.

Once I arrived at the cottage I looked around the area for any signs that a Pine Marten has been in the area, I did see some droppings that could be from a Pine marten so was this to be a lucky trip for me? About tea time I set upon the task to make some Jam sandwiches, not for me although I was hungry at this point after a long drive but especially made for my little friends hiding from me. I laid these little treats along a wide window ledge giving me a good view from my comfy throne within the cottage.

Time was passing by and after a very long drive on this day I decided to give up and head for bed around 11.30pm, during a restless night as I usually have trying to sleep in an unknown house on the first night, I decided to go downstairs and have a drink of water, on passing the window to my surprise all the jam sandwiches and the peanuts I left out where all gone? Did I miss my chance or do we have another type of critter with a taste for the sweet stuff, maybe it was rats or even a fox? I headed back to bed hoping for another try the next night.

On the second night I was full of hope having seen the previous nights treats vanish from my window ledge, so we a lot more hope I done my usual task of making supper for the Pine marten, again the jam sandwiches where laid in the same position as the last night with a few peanuts, after many hours of watching a film and glancing over my shoulder the time once again took its toll on my eyes and I started to fall asleep, maybe this lovely fresh Highland air is making me sleepy and the fact I have been touring the Isle of Skye all day made me tired, I once again gave up and headed towards the bedroom, maybe its just not to be a lucky week like I usually experience.

On the third night I decided to use just a little bit of a different approach, I do know Pine martens have a very good sense of smell and maybe a cottage somewhere up the hill was feeding these little monsters well and they where not venturing further down the hill towards the loch. I decided to place some jam and bread on the perimeter fence of the property and place the rest on the usual window ledge adopted for my Pine Marten feast.

Later in the night when I was watching a film on my laptop with a slightly twisted neck looking towards the window, I turned away for a few moments to take a drink when I heard a type of low growl I have never heard before “what’s that noise” I said to my wife who by this time for wondering if I ever wanted to look at her again, as I said this I turned towards the window and seen a Pine Marten my heart jumped a few beats and could not believe after years of looking I could actually see one with my own eyes, in fact there was not one Pine Marten but 2 fighting for the honour to sit upon the ledge with the feast, this is what the strange noise was 2 Pine Martens fighting over this enticing layout of treats laid before them.

My First Pine Marten Visit

At first I could not talk for the excitement, then after what felt like 20 minutes I remembered the camera, being a DSLR camera I of course had to battle with the construction of fitting the lens which of course was a bit difficult with shaking hands. Eventually I was in position and wondered why after all the preparation had I forgotten this vital piece of equipment, what if this was to be my only chance and I missed getting a photograph to treasure this fine moment, but I did not have to worry because of the presence of the other Pine Marten my little friend was to stay on the window ledge and munch his way through my little treats I had made especially for him, he did not seemed bothered at all that I was inches away from him  through a thin piece of glass, it seemed more concerned that he had the Jam sandwiches all to himself, I am calling it a him because I could not tell the difference between the two sexes, after about 10 minutes all the action had ended and I went to bed comfortable and with a smile that lit up my face.

After this third night encounter I was visited every night, by what I thought could be different Pine Martens as on 2 occasions I thought that one had a slightly darker coat and much larger than the other visitors on the following nights, they ate my usual treats and my wife decided she wanted to leave an Egg out as well, I got the feeling the Egg seemed like a very prized treat as this was always generally taken first on the next visits.

For me the rest of the week was a great success and the Pine Marten even visited us during daylight not long before dusk, I even seen one cross the road in front of my car during a drive out, was it the case of the tale you can wait for a bus for hours then 3 turn up at the same time, it seemed my luck had changed or was I just in the right place at the right time, I will never know but that week will stay with me for the rest of my life even if I do see many more Pine Martens, This week away in the Highlands turned out to be a bit special due to the fact that I also seen many more wildlife creatures I had longed to see in the wild, during the week we seen Golden Eagle, White tailed Eagle, Otters, Seals, and Minky Whales as well as many other small birds including the Cuckoo.

A very memorable week and I will be back to the area real soon. 

A Short Video I took of a Pine Marten at the Rear of the Cottage

On a cold and frosty morning, 13^th of November 1715 the supporters of the exiled Stuart king, known as Jacobites and led by the lacklustre Earl of Mar faced the regimented ranks of the Government Redcoats led by the Duke of Argyll across the frozen morass of Sheriffmuir near Stirling. Over the next few hours the two sides hacked away at each other, neither gaining much advantage nor making any headway; but their objectives were very different. Mar had to cross the River Forth if he was to take his army on to Edinburgh; Argyll had only to stop him. As the sun set over distant Ben Ledi, the two exhausted forces drew back – the Battle of Sheriffmuir was over. It was inconclusive, no-one had actually won; but it was a strategic victory for Argyll and the government; his objective met. It was the end of the ’15 Rebellion.

Although defeated, the Jacobite cause remained popular in the Highlands where chieftains still maintained sizeable retinues of fierce fighters, ready to strike again for the ‘King over the Sea’; and this was of considerable concern for the government. It was a worry, not only in terms of spontaneous rebellion against the establishment, but it kept a back door open for the warmongering ambitions of the French king, and it simply had to be brought under control; the independence of the chiefs and the clans had to be reigned in. However, the government in far off London knew as much about the Highlands as it did the far side of the moon.

In 1724 George I sent north Major-General George Wade to investigate how best to solve the Highland problem. His research was thorough, his vision far-reaching and his report sobering. He suggested that the only way to tackle the issue of inevitable insurrection in the north was to build a series of heavily manned forts in key strategic locations and to link them together by building straight, high-quality and well maintained roads. Also, new regiments raised locally with the remit to ‘watch’ the Highlands should be created to provide a rapid-reaction force to deal with any rising, and stamp it out before it became a serious threat. A ‘Disarming Act’ was also passed by the Government to take swords and guns out of the hands of the clansmen – but, Wade rightly asserted that only loyal clans would hand their weapons in; and that building ‘Fortress Scotland’ was the only viable and long term solution.

Major-General George Wade

This and many other recommendations were accepted by parliament and the king, and in 1725 Wade was made Commander in Chief of North Britain, with the sole purpose of turning his conclusions into a reality.

There was already a fairly ramshackle fortress at Fort William (originally built by Cromwell – and named for William of Orange) and a garrison at Inverness on another old Cromwellian site. But precious little else, save a few key castles such as Blair and Inveraray that could be held to protect key routes. So, Wade set about upgrading Fort William and Inverness (Fort George); and building new barracks and fortifications at Ruthven in Badenoch, Cill Chuimein, now Fort Augustus and Bernera in Glen Elg to protect the vital routes from Skye. But, key to the success wasn’t cleverly located military bases, but roads to connect them allowing the troops to move easily across the wild terrain of the Highlands, where there were precious few roads of any kind. It would be the largest civil engineering project in Scotland since Roman times.

It wasn’t just a simple case of pitching up with shovel and pick and away you go; there were no maps, the terrain and weather was unforgiving; the natives restless and no blueprints to work from. Wade wanted to make his roads well graded, wide (16ft), properly drained and with a solid surface to take troops and carts. In some places he had to compromise, but for most of the 250 miles of road he built he stuck to these principals. At his disposal was an average of a hundred men, sometimes even 300; and they worked tirelessly through the summer months carving new routes across the mountains. Where they could they followed river valleys, with a minimal number of river crossings (originally all were forded, but in time most would be bridged) and as few steep slopes to traverse as possible. They would then spread out across the Highlands linking the forts, and in turn linking them to the major cities in the south.

The first road, connecting Fort William, Fort Augustus and Fort George, was begun in 1727 and for the most part runs along the length of the Great Glen, and hugs the eastern shore of dark Loch Ness. Wade also put a gunboat on the loch for added firepower. It was a key highway through an important corridor, slicing through the heart of Jacobite country; his next road would be even more pivotal. At over a hundred miles, Wade’s road from Dunkeld in Perthshire to Inverness was the most important route, connecting the Highlands with Perth and Stirling. The modern A9 Highway pretty much follows the route as laid out by the general in 1728: past Pitlochry and Blair Atholl, before the crossing the bleak Drumochter Pass into Speyside. From Carrbridge the road traverses the wild bounds of the Slochd before journeying Drumossie Muir and down the steep slopes in to Inverness and the fort up on the hill (site of the present Inverness castle).

To emphasise the singular importance of the route, about half way along he constructed the Ruthven Barracks near to Kingussie. This had always been key strategic location and guarded the medieval routes through the mountains. In addition, a link road was built connecting this Highland Highwaywith Crieff and Stirling. This road, built in 1730, includes the famous bridge at Aberfeldy – which still stands and still carries main road traffic. Wade decided not to run a road to Bernera; but did want to connect the main highways in the Great Glen and Central Highlands together; and this would prove his most audacious plan yet.

Wade's Bridge - Aberfeldy

This route, linking Fort Augustus with Dalwhinnie had one major obstacle in front of it: the thick block of the Monadh Liath Mountains. The lowest and most accessible route was through the Corrieyairack Forest, but this would involve a 2500ft climb and over 18 switch-back traverses to cross. It was a feat of unparalleled engineering at the time; but, it was essentially unviable. Of all Wade’s roads this is the only one that never developed into a modern highway; but, it makes for a great long distance walk in fine weather. It was also the last major road built by Wade himself. He continued as the Commander, but the job of road builder passed to Major William Caulfield.

Although not as famous as his predecessor, Caulfield is responsible for nearly four times as much road than Wade across Scotland. Among his principal routes are the long road north from Loch Lomond to Fort William across Rannoch Moor including the dizzying Devil’s Staircase; The Rest and Be Thankful from Loch Lomond to Inveraray; and a road from Blairgowrie to Inverness through the Eastern Highlands via Braemar and the Lecht Pass.

In 1803, with the roads no longer needed for military purposes (the Jacobite threat having been crushed at Culloden in 1746), and in a state of terrible repair, they passed into the control of the Commission of Highland Roads and Bridges. A new survey was sent north to look at the state of affairs, and to assess what use the roads and the network would serve going forward: and whom. It was drovers, merchants, travellers and the like that now travelled where soldiers once marched; and the roads needed to be upgraded and improved to meet new social and economic requirements. Thomas Telford, the great Scottish engineer was responsible for upgrading, straightening, widening and generally improving the efficiency of the network. This involved building some truly impressive bridges, such as at Dunkeld and Craigellachie.

The modern road network of the Highlands evolved from these improvements; but the essential plan of the system is still fundamentally based upon the military roads built by Wade and Caulfield over 250 years ago: a truly lasting legacy from a different age.

This article was written by David McNicoll, who runs Vacation Scotland – a travel company that specialises in tours around Scotland, including historical trips.  http://www.vacationscotland.biz for more information

The Isle of skye is a great place to visit – and with a car you can do a great loop around the island taking in all the amazing scenery and learning about its celtic heritage.

The tour starts in Kyleakin at the southeastern corner of the island, which is accessed by coming over the Bridge from the Kyle of Lochalsh and Eilean Donan Castle beyond. Once over the bridge, turn to the left.  

• There is a ruined castle in Kyleakin (you can see it from the bridge), called Castle Moil, and you can walk out to it.
• Kyleakin in Gaelic is Caol Acain – the Straights of Haakon (Haakon Haakonarson was the Norweigian king defeated at the Battle of Largs in 1263 – he moored his ships here prior to the battle)

Continuing along the A87 north you will arrive into Broadford, perhaps the least interesting place on the island – although there are a number of accommodation options here; and on Sunday one of the few open petrol stations. There are also two detours you can make from the town:

• A851 to Armadale and Ardvasar (for the Mallaig Ferry) – as you come into Armadale (just after passing the Sabhal Mor Ostaig college) turn left into Armadale Castle and Clan Donald Centre. The castle is a recent ruin, once seat to the Macdonalds of Sleat; and the Clan Donald museum is one of the best in Scotland. Only 15 minutes from Broadford
• B8083 to Elgol (Ealaghol). You can admire the views on the way, especially to Blà Bheinn, and to the Black Cuillin. Personally, I’d join one of the boat trips (Misty Isle or Bella Jane) into Loch Scavaig, and have free time to walk out to see the stunning Loch Coruisk and the full ridge of the Black Cuillin. The detour from Broadford is about 40 minutes each way, plus boat trip; so you need the time – but, a hugely rewarding experience
  

  Loch Coruisk (Loch Coir Uisg)

Continuing north towards Portree will take you through small villages overlooking the islands of Scalpay and Raasay (with the notable peak of Dun Caan dominating), and will climb high through the Red Cuillin Hills (there are a couple of great viewpoints and laybys to let you stop). At Sligachan make a stop. The view over the Cuillin from the bridge is fantastic, as is the beer and whisky choice in the inn itself. Carrying on up the A87 you climb up the hill and it levels out you will see a large layby on the right; pull across the road and park. The view looking back is breathtaking – one of the best in Scotland.

Arrive into Portree, the Island capital (and meaning either the king’s bay or the bay on the slope. The latter may be older and the former is an evolved name). The Aros Centre on the way in makes for an interesting stop; and in the town it is worth going down to the harbour (walk don’t drive – turning  is a nightmare), and there are some good options for having lunch in Somerled Square.

For most people driving up to Skye, Portree is the main overnight stop. There are plenty of Guest Houses, Hotels, Hostels and Campsites. There’s a number of good places to eat, ranging from pub grub to high-end local cuisine. In the morning you’ll be ready to carry on your adventure round the island

From Portree take the A855 for Staffin. This road has been upgraded and is a great drive up the Trotternish Peninsula. As the road levels out above the town, the landscape becomes dominated by the serrated dome of the Storr Hill, and the pinnacle: the Old Man of Storr. Eventually there is a point where the hill reflects back into a small loch – great photo stop. If you are feeling fit, you can climb up to the Old Man. The car park is next to a small patch of planted forestry. From the Storr, the highlights heading north are –

• Kilt Rock – a fabulous rock formation in the cliffs and a waterfall into the sea. Also great views over to Wester Ross
• Staffin Museum – real dinosaur footprints (a rarity inScotland)
• The Quiraing (Bealach Cuithraing) – a staccato landscape above Staffin. Take the small road to the left signposted for the Quiraing and climb up the hill. There is a carpark at the top. Again, if you want a good walk, follow the path into the heart of the mountains (the prison, needle and table). Need good boots and clothes for all weathers. Return to Staffin
• The Museum of Island Life and Flora MacDonald’s Grave at Duntulm. The museum tells the tale of life on the islands back in the day, and you can walk up to the graveyard at Kilmuir (or drive), it lies about a quarter a mile behind the open-air museum
• Fairy Glen, Uig. As you come down into Uig and re-join the A87 south go past the general store and cross the small bridge. Take the next left into Glen Uig and drive for about two miles. The landscape then becomes rather surreal, like it’s all in miniature. There is a place to park next to a small lochan –you can wander around – get yourself up on top of one of the mounds and the views over Glen Uig are magic, especially if it’s been raining
  

  The Fairy Glen

Personally, I don’t bother with this longer loop up to Duntulm and the museum of island life; rather, after stopping at the Quiraing I carry on this single track road, which again brings you to Uig and the Fairy Glen is still an option

Take the A87 south to the junction with the A850 and turn right for Dunvegan. Not much to write home about as you cross some heather moorland and pass through a couple of small villages. At Dunvegan (Dùn Bheagain) there are several suggestions

• Dunvegan Castle– not the best in Scotland, although the gardens are nice, and you would get to see the fairy flag. A wet weather option for me.
• The Giant MacAskill museum – hear the tale of the tallest man in British history, and considered by some the strongest man who ever lived
• The Coral Beach. Take the road to Dunvegan Castle, but drive past the carpark and follow the road to its natural conclusion without heading up any farm tracks. There is a car park, and it’s about a 30 minute, fairly easy-going walk out to the beach. Well worth it on a nice day
• A mile or so south of the village turn right onto the A884 and head on to Lephin, where you turn left and head down to Neist. Again, there is a car park and a walk out to the lighthouse overlooking stunning cliffs – and the views across the Western Isles ain’t too shabby either. I’d research the route in advance beforehand as it involves small unclassified roads

From Dunvegan head south along the A863. This is a coastal road, so the scenery is fantastic. Just before you reach Struan you will see a sign for ‘Dun Beag Broch’. Park in the layby on the right, cross the road and follow the path up to the best preserved Iron Age fortress on Skye.

Along the West Coast of Skye

A few miles further on – take a right for Carbost (B8009). Again follow the road right down into the village and you’ll arrive at Talisker Distillery. You can’t book in advance and you may have a wait for a tour – especially if it’s wet day. Nearby options also include –

• Talisker Bay– a quiet, untouched corner of the island. You’ll see the signpost as you near Carbost (turn-off to the left). Follow the road right down to the far and park before you actually head into the courtyard. Walk through the farm buildings and for about 20 minutes and you’ll reach the bay
• Glen Brittle – another turn-off from the Carbost road. This takes you down through a deep glaciated valley at the foot of the Cuillin. The beach is surrounded by a wall of mountain and overlooks towards Rum and Eigg

Return to the A863 and continue back to Sligachan – the loop of Skye is complete. Although there are plenty of other little detours, walks and places to relax and enjoy the scenery. Don’t forget to enjoy a whisky or two, and keep an ear open for people still speaking the Gaelic language.

This itinerary was put together by David McNicoll from Vacation Scotland – a travel company specialising in tours of Skye. www.vacationscotland.biz

Scotland is a country with many amazing attractions and sights and a culture that is full of Anglo-Saxon history and tradition. Recognized as a place that can cater to the interests and needs of any type of traveler, a trip to Scotland is a must for any globetrotter or well-traveled and educated tourist guide. From remote and windy walks on the Moors to exploring the boutiques and cafes in quaint little towns or sampling local ales at the liveliest pub in town, any visitor can find something interesting and exciting to do in Scotland. Read about the gorgeous and enticing attractions the country has to offer below:

• The Borders – Along the border that divides Scotland from England, you will find an abundance of rolling hills and agricultural landscapes that are dotted with the towns that played significant roles in Scotland’s independence from England. Sprinkled with interesting shops and historical attractions, these towns are full of wonderful little secrets to stumble upon. 
• Edinburgh – Considered the best city to fly into, this tourist destination is full of museums, performing arts venues and lively local folk. The castles that surround the city are great for diving into a day of scenic and historical tours. 
• Fife – This Scottish county is known for its crafting and arts circles, as well as for being the home of the renowned St. Andrews, where the game of golf was created. The university is recognized worldwide, offering degrees in several areas such as online international business degrees.
• Glasgow – Even though Glasgow is the largest city in Scotland, it is not known as a particularly popular tourist destination. Nonetheless, the city is full of music venues, museums and is the base for most of the national art organizations. Perfect for those who enjoy city holidays and like to see historic buildings and sights, such as the Glasgow Necropolis. 
• The Grampian Mountains – For the outdoorsy type, this rugged area of Scotland is perfect for hiking and breathtaking photography opportunities. Home to several medieval castles that are situated within the beautiful Cairngorms National Park, this region is spectacular in landscape and ideal for those that like to spend their holidays in simple and quiet surroundings. 
• The Highlands – One of the most beautiful and evocative regions of Scotland, the Highlands offer tantalizing views of the country’s natural landscape. The Glencoe area is known for its importance in Scottish history, and is well worth the visit for its walking and hiking opportunities. 
• Loch Ness – The famous monster from children’s fables is named after this lake and, despite the horrors of the story, Loch Ness and nearby Urquhart Castle are definitely sights to see. The largest town close to the Loch Ness is Inverness, which is surrounded by several quaint villages to visit or for lodging. 
• The Trossachs – Literature from the 1900s and the art of several renowned Victorian painters and sculptors has created a draw towards the Trossachs, a small woodland glen to the northwest of Edinburgh. Its scenic charms and romantic preludes are a calming and sensual setting for honeymoons or a quiet and remote getaway. 

Sources

ThereArePlaces (2012)

Visit Scotland (2012)

The mountains of the Highlands may still be snow-covered, and it doesn’t entirely feel that spring has sprung; but with lambs in the fields and leaves returning to the trees, the colours of Scotland are changing again as the seasonal clogs turn once more through their eternal motion. Through the winter the only green is the rather geometric patchwork of conifer forestry peppering the countryside; and as April rolls into May it all starts to get lost in summer’s Kaleidoscope of colour. It wasn’t always this way. Our sea of planted woodland is a relatively recent addition to our landscape, and much of it is due to one man.

Systematically from around 1600 the great natural pine forests of the Scottish uplands were chopped and burned down, in places to flush out wolves and wild rebels, but mostly to provide timber for the Industrial Revolution, the Royal Navy and for charcoal production. Today the Caledonian Pine forest is a tiny fraction of its once great coverage, and instead of our own Scots pine many of the hillsides are blanketed in fast-growing, non-native imported species.

The planted sea of conifer trees

Even from early on, it was obvious that as the pine forests were being felled, they’d need to be replaced; and despite the actions of several large landowners such as the Duke of Atholl (who would plant over 14 million larches on his vast estate), not enough was really done to staunch the timber haemorrhage. By 1916 and the First World War, Britain was almost treeless – and relying on importing timber from Canada. This was a dire situation, and one that needed to be drastically reversed.

Following the war the British Government set up the Forestry Commission with a remit to reforest Britain to the extent of 8 million acres; it wasn’t an easy ask. Part of the solution was to bring into public ownership the vast tracts of mature forest already privately owned, and much of this was to be found in Scotland, particularly in Argyll and Perthshire. Death tax exemption and a few bailouts to struggling estates in exchange for their forests did part of the trick; the other was to plant afresh: but what to plant?

David Douglas was born in the small village of Scone in central Scotland in 1799, and on leaving school he became apprentice Gardner on the Earl of Mansfield’s nearby estate, where began his love affair with plants and all things botanical. Following his apprenticeship he moved on to work at the Botanic Gardens in Glasgow, where he found favour with the scientific movers and shakers of the day. They encouraged him to travel on a botanical survey around the Highlands, where he made such a good impression that he was commissioned by the Horticultural Society of London (now the Royal Horticultural Society) to go to the United States. Plants and fancy trees were all the rage in society Britain at the time, and many of the great houses were having their gardens designed with the latest imports in mind. So, amid this hunger and desire for the exotic Douglas headed off across the Atlantic in 1824.

David Douglas

His mission was to explore the Pacific Northwest (modern day Oregon,Washington and British Columbia) and collect as many plant specimens and seeds as he could. He almost single-handedly traversed mountain and river across this virtually uncharted land. He was the first European to see much of the western continent, and the greatest botanic explorer in American history. He would befriend many of the native tribes, even becoming an honouree tribesman to some. This connection with the locals helped Douglas overcome some insurmountable problems – and would see him become the first European to navigate from the Columbia River to Hudson Bay.

He was an avid collector, and wonderfully detailed in his descriptions of everything he saw and found, and his many journals stand testament to his skill, endurance and determination to do his job. Unfortunately, Douglas would be killed after falling into an animal trap while on a journey to Hawaii in 1834. He was only 35 years old.

In his short life he would successfully bring back to Britain over 240 new species of trees and flowers, including the Sitka Spruce, the Noble fir, the Lupin, the Grand fir and the tree named after him – the Douglas fir. In addition, there are over 80 species of plants which have today douglasii in their scientific name: a truly remarkable achievement. His new additions would certainly bring colour to many a garden and arboretum across the country, and in 1827 the Douglas fir would be introduced into cultivation. However, it would be the post First World War landscapes of upland Britain that would feel the greatest impact of the legacy of David Douglas

Sitka Spruce and Douglas firs grow very quickly in our rich soils and benign climate, reaching (for Sitka) maturity reasonably early. They’re tall trees and perfect for timber production. These two introductions were then of course (along with the Duke of Atholl’s larches) the obvious choices to replenish the lost forest. The problem is the nature of mono-culture. The trees are planted so close to each other that no sunlight reaches the floor, and few other plants and animals can live with them. They’re planted in regimented rows, blocks, squares and even zigzags; that it comes close to landscape graffiti. And, of course they’re non-native. This isn’t Douglas’ fault of course, but the policy of the Forestry Commission over the majority of the last 100 years – by 1960 these forests had become commercial, and the planting increased, with little thought to the environmental consequences.

Things have changed over the last 20 years. Some of the older plantations have been thinned and opened up as forest parks with walks, cycle routes and so on; forests clear-felled are now likely to be replaced with native woodlands instead to improve the environmental impact and regenerate other plants and animals; and the days of planting in geometrical shapes has thankfully gone. Still, drive through Perthshire, Argyll or Galloway and the ghost of David Douglas watches on.

Once upon a time (as all good stories begin) a small island of the wet and windswept northwest coast of Europe ruled the world; well, maybe not the whole world, but a fair chunk of it: and on that island a grimy city pumped the lifeblood of that empire: when Britannia ‘ruled the waves’ it was the City of Glasgow that provided her with the ships, raw materials and the muscle. A fluke of geography and history had placed this unique town in the right place at the right time, and yet it all started with such humble beginnings.

In the late 6^th century, St Mungo the evangelical Celtic saint established a monastery on a hill above the River Clyde in what was then the Kingdom of Strathclyde. To him the place was his ‘green hollow’, which came into the Gaelic language as Glaschu, and ultimately into English as Glasgow. The religious settlement was a beacon of light, and in time it grew down the hill to the river and west towards the flat meadowland and rolling hills beyond.

In the 1190s work was begun on the building that would eventually become Glasgow Cathedral, which still stands today on the site of St Mungo’s monastery, and indeed his remains continue to lie in the vaults of the Lower Church. The 12^th century also saw the elevation of the town of Glasgow to the rank of Royal Burgh. This promotion brought with it trading rights and special privileges which saw Glasgow blossom as the medieval powerhouse in the west. By the 15^th century Glasgow was firmly established as one of the key cities of the kingdom along with Edinburgh, Perth and Aberdeen, and in ecclesiastical terms it was ranked second only to St Andrews, when in 1492 the See was raised to an Archbishopric. Glasgow’s star was on the rise, and then it all seemed to go stagnant –Edinburgh began to eclipse her western twin, and by the 1600s very little had changed or developed on the Clyde.

The Reformation gave the town a much needed economic boost, for where there is Calvinism Capitalism will not be far behind. The Protestant work ethic was adopted by the city, and soon it found itself trading with the Americas. There was however a major problem: the English Government blocked Scottish trading in her colonies (all part of the plan to subdue her troublesome northern neighbour). The Scots were far more inventive than the English understood however, and Glasgow was a hive of smuggling and black-marketeering. Tobacco, cotton and sugar were the main imports, and the money slowly trickled in. The floodgates opened in 1707 when Scotland and England signed the Treaty of Union. There were numerous clauses in the treaty geared to placating the Scots during the negotiations, among them the right for Scottish burghs and ports to trade with England’s American colonies. It took a while for things to kick in, and the benefits didn’t seem immediately obvious; but by the 1740s things were starting to show a marked improvement.

In 1700 the city’s population was only 15,000, by the 1780s it had risen to over 42,000 and the merchants were hauling in over 60 million tons of tobacco alone – and it would be tobacco that would change not only Glasgow’s fortunes, but the very look of the place. The merchant elite, better known as the Tobacco Lords, were literally awash with money and were looking to spend, spend, spend. They invested in everything from shipbuilding and land purchasing to the building of the most ostentatious houses in the kingdom. Few of these great houses unfortunately now remain, but a large part of the town west of the High Street was torn down to make room, and the area became known as the Merchant City. Its new streets led down to Glasgow Bridge; over to the rich farmland of the Gorbles; and up the river to the Port of the Broomielaw. A whole new city was evolving on the banks of the Clyde; one that would rival the most elegant in the country.

Glasgow's George Square

Forty five miles away in Edinburgh the money was also pouring in on the back of the capital’s financial revolution, and James Craig’s incredible New Town was emerging below the castle ramparts. Glasgow, always jealous of her more famous and successful nemesis embarked on her own new town building programme. The greatest innovation was the building of the stunning George Square in the 1780s, which would be the centrepiece of a radical grid-iron street pattern stretching west from the Merchant City to the mansion houses of Blythswood and Anderston. The meadowlands lying to the west of the town covered a set of steep rolling hills which presented the architects and engineers with all sorts of challenges; and one that was overcome by revolutionary and yet dynamic design. Sauchiehall Street, George Street and St Vincent Street are all bejewelled by some stunning sandstone edifaces as they climb up the slopes.

What emerged by the early 1800s was one of the most elegant and beautiful cities in Europe. Coupled with the growing ship building on the Clyde and the iron forging in the east, Glasgow’s trading arm drove the city forward at a pace that would see it become the engine room of the Industrial Revolution and the second largest city of theBritish Empire. Yet, Glasgow’s New Town, which remains one of the most innovative examples of city design in the world, is almost forgotten; overshadowed by the fame of the capital’s crescents, circuses and boulevards. It is a situation long overdue for rectitude. 

This article was written by David McNicoll who runs Vacation Scotland; a travel company specialising in great tour packages to Scotland. For more information – http://www.vacationscotland.biz

On the 6^th of April 1320 the nobility of Scotland gathered in the Abbey of Arbroath on the windswept east coast, and penned a letter to the Pope in Avignon that would come to symbolise Scottish independence, its indefatigability and the liberties and freedoms of her people. The Declaration of Arbroath came against the backdrop of decades of brutal war against England and her attempts to conquer Scotland; and it was as much about the legitimacy of Robert the Bruce as king, as it was for the sovereignty of the people. Yet, across oceans of time and space it would influence they way countries would govern themselves; the very birth of the concept of the nation state itself.

It is often said that Britain, and by extension Scotland has no constitution; no set of rules or articles that define how the nation is to be governed and what limits are placed upon those doing the governing. Some countries, like America or India are famous for their constitutions and while it is the case that the United Kingdom has no written document in this sense, it does still have a constitution; and one flexible enough to bend with the times, or pliable to meet the demands of modern government.

Rigid constitutions, like the American one, have to be routinely amended otherwise their legislative programmes get hacked to pieces in the courts. Britain doesn’t have this issue, because the Crown acts as legislature, executive and judicial all rolled into one. This means that any arrangement to guarantee freedom, democracy and the liberty of the individual from tyranny begins with limiting the Royal Prerogative, and indeed defining the relationship between Crown and people itself. And, it is a raft of documents, checks and balances, and conventions that form the British Constitution.

The process by which England, Scotland and ultimately Britain evolved from autocratic monarchy to liberal democracy took centuries, punctuated by the odd civil war here and there, and a slow ebbing of power either to parliament or to the cabinet and Prime Minister. In England the road begins with King John’s submission to the barons at Runnymede and the Magna Charta in 1215; in Scotland the fundamental document is the Declaration of Arbroath.

Declaration of Arbroath

For centuries, kings of England had claimed overlordship of Scotland; and pointed to a number of occasions down through the years where Scottish kings had paid homage or submitted themselves at the English court. The problem was that the English kings took these rituals seriously, while the Scots were simply paying lip service until such time as they could regroup and head back to war. Scottish kings also protested that such submission was only ever for lands and titles they held in England; but that the English king had no writ over Scotland itself. The matter was essentially academic as the Scots fought hard to maintain their sovereign independence: until 1296 that is.

In middle ages Europe a country was simply as much land as a king got away with ruling; there was no sense of a nation state, or a national collective; no notion that a country was something abstract and beyond the writ of the royal decree. The king sat at the apex of a feudal system, which placed him as the sole arbiter and owner of the state; and by 1290 the English king, Edward I, had stretched his national and personal rule across half of France, half of Ireland, all of Wales and all the way to the historic border with Scotland. The Scots too had a powerful king, Alexander III, but his untimely death in 1286 precipitated a succession crisis and civil war. Edward was asked to adjudicate on the rightful king; but in the time honoured tradition and as a lever he demanded that whoever chosen would submit to him as overlord of Scotland.

The successful candidate, John Balliol enthusiastically accepted the crown and gave his due homage as vassal to Edward; Scotland was now officially a satellite of England and her king. John rebelled in 1296 and Edward invaded, stripped him of the throne, stole the regalia and symbols of the Scottish monarchy and proclaimed himself king. Without going into the detail of the Wars of Independence, and the backdrop of civil war between the Bruce, Balliol and Comyn factions still fighting each other for scraps from Edward’s table; the struggle for freedom was felt at all levels from peasant to prince and it had a galvanising effect.

The Robert Bruce of fame and glory was the third generation of his family to claim the Scottish throne since the death of Alexander, and he probably did have the strongest case. He was a clever tactician and a brilliant swordsman; but even he struggled to convince large sections of the population and nobility to follow him. In 1305, while in an advantageous position over his rivals he lured John Comyn to a church in Dumfries and murdered him in cold blood. For this act, the Bruce was excommunicated by the Pope, and neither he nor the Church would recognise Bruce as king, or Scotland as anything other than an English appendage. It was a dark hour, but with the deed done the way was clear, and ignoring the Pope, defying Edward and against the will of many Scots, Bruce was crowned in secret in 1306.Scotland once again had a king; but there was a long way to go.

Over the course of the following decade there were victories and setback, highs and lows, but finally in June 1314 Robert the Bruce defeated a huge English army led by Edward II just outside Stirling at Bannockburn. It was a massive victory, and not only ended English occupation, but cemented Bruce’s position as the rightful and free king. But, there remained the problem of the Pope and the excommunication.

Arbroath Abbey

Bruce acknowledged that he could not have won without the support of the nobles and the people themselves; and understanding the need to keep his country together (and his dynasty in power) he went off on a marketing campaign. He held parliaments, dispensed useful patronages, and above all he called himself King of Scots, not King of Scotland – an unspoken agreement that he ruled the people but not the land; the sovereignty was held both by king and his people. The long wars had steeled the people and made them determined that the Scotland that emerged would be for all the people, built by the people and in partnership with the crown. It was the emergence of what became known, and is still known as the Community of the Realm; it’s the dawning of the concept of nationhood.  

These were the sentiments that were sprinkled through the Declaration of Arbroath. Although principally a plea to Pope John XXII to re-communicate the Bruce and recognise Scottish independence it also laid out how the future Scotland would be governed at a fundamental level – the right of the people to remove a king if he was unfit, and that he sat by their consent and in covenant with them. This is in medieval Scotland hundreds of years before the French and American revolutions. It is no coincidence that its message of freedom for all men, and the notion that power is held in trust for the people and that the people are sovereign is echoed in Jefferson’s Declaration of Independence. Many nations around the globe hold these values dear, first aired in Arbroath Abbey: it is an incredible legacy, and not to be forgotten even if only one hundred of us remains alive.

This article was written by David McNicoll, owner of Vacation Scotland – which specialises in vacations and travel packages to Scotland. For more information on their tours – http://www.vacationscotland.biz

“Transis ample Tai, per rura, per oppida, per Perth, Regnum sustentant illius urbis opes”

This year as part of the celebrations commemorating the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee several British towns were submitted to the Crown as part of a competition to bestow city status and a winner chosen for each part of Great Britain: Chelmsford in England, St. Asaph in Wales and Perth in Scotland. For those who’ve always considered Perth a city, both culturally and historically it is a timely honour.

The City of Perth sits at one the great junctions of Scotland; where roads from the Highlands and northeast converge with highways heading north from industrial Glasgow and the capital, Edinburgh; it’s a pivotal point. Additionally, its location on the River Tay at the lowest natural crossing point, and also where the tide reaches far enough inland to permit a viable harbour, has meant that since time immemorial it has been an important settlement and key in the development of the nation. The original village was been built on a small, low mound rising above the frequently submerged floodplain and close to a good crossing point. The name ‘Perth’ itself is of Pictish origin and means a thicket of wood, suggesting other natural resources at hand – wood for fires and buildings, plus wild game, mushrooms and berries in abundance.

River Tay and Perth Bridge

By the time the Romans came past around 2000 years ago, there was probably a small village on the site, with a degree of farmland around the main centre, with more extensive cultivation leading along Strathearn and up the Tay to Strathmore. A Roman road, running along a ridge above the River Earn reached the Tay about four miles north of the current city centre, and crossed the river by way of a wooden bridge; and then continues north along the edge of the Highlands at least as far as Stracathro in Angus. There is little physical evidence that the locals traded with the Romans, but considering the amount of grain the army would have needed, and Perth’s locale on the navigable Tay, it would be likely.

Throughout the so-called Dark Ages Perth played a key role in the formation of Scotland due its position and harbour in the breadbasket of the emerging kingdom; a fact compounded by the rise of nearby Scone as the coronation site. Scone sits right at the point where the Tay becomes tidal, which suggests an ancient religious connection, which it took forward into Christian times; Perth it seems developed into a symbiotic market town. By the 12^th century it had become one of Scotland’s key trading centres, and during the reign of David I it received a charter as a Royal Burgh. David I introduced the feudal system into Scotland, based on the English model, and the burgh system gave the country an economic boost; enriching the Crown at the same time. It meant that Perth now had specific trade privileges and controlled the markets of a wide hinterland.

In the middle ages the king and his court moved around their residences, but Perth was the principal seat or capital; even after the royal castle was washed away in a major flooding of the river in 1209 – not until the assassination of James I in 1437 did the ‘capital’ move to the safety of Edinburgh Castle. Like Edinburgh, Perth was not a major religious centre, but the townsfolk have long had a close affinity to their parish church. From early times, there has been a kirk dedicated to St John the Baptist and throughout the medieval period Perth was known as St Johnstoun (reflected in the name of the local football team today – St Johnstone); while ‘Perth’ itself was given over to the greater area around the town (again, reflected today in the term ‘Perth Landward’).

Unlike many other towns in medieval Scotland, Perth was poorly defended; but in the long running wars with England in the 14^th century Edward III took the city and built substantial defences around it – attempting to make it an English enclave; in much the same way as in Dublin. It didn’t last, and although nothing now remains of the old city wall, the mill lade stream traces the outline, and many of the street names give hints to an older layout to the place. In the 1440s a new, elegant and rather imposing Church of St John was built in the heart of the market area, and much of the modern street alignment goes back to this time – although, the focus of a bridge over the Tay was also an important element in town planning. It was here in the Kirk that John Knox gave his famous impassioned sermon in 1559, launching the Scottish Reformation.

St John's Kirk - Perth

In the years following the Union of Crowns in 1603, Perth like the rest of the country suffered its fair share strife during the many civil wars of the 17^th century; and as an important city it was no coincidence that Oliver Cromwell built a substantial fort here as part of his move to control Scotland following his successful invasion in 1650. The fort was located on the South Inch, one of the main city parks today. Prior to the invasion the Scots had crowned Charles II king at Scone, the last time there was a coronation in Scotland, and perhaps this was part of Cromwell’s motivation as well. But, Perth has always been a trading town, a place of commerce, and while key to the machinations of state, crown and kirk; it’s really a story about the merchants who made the city rich. Many of the buildings, especially around the parks are an elegant display of the wealth that was being generated.

Following the Treaty of Union in 1707 which saw England’s American and Caribbean colonies and markets open up to Scottish merchants, trade in Britain shifted to the west coast. Glasgow became the principal port of the kingdom, and east coast ports had to find a new niche to occupy. Dundee became the great Juteopolis, weaving the world’s jute; and Perth became a city famous for her cattle markets, whisky production, linen making, dyeing, and in time became a major railway town. With the railways came tourists, and with the majesty of the Highlands on its doorstep it was a natural stopping point. As the roads of the 19^th century improved following the First World War, and more people had cars, large numbers of holiday-makers headed north, following the A9 to Perth before carrying on to the hills beyond.

Today, the engineering, the whisky, the dye factories and the cattle are all but gone; trains halt for only a few minutes, and the A9 and A90 highways now by-pass the city altogether. Still, Perth has been about services too – the insurance company General Accident was founded here, and the parent company still retains a presence, there are plenty of good small enterprises, and as a county town many public service jobs. And, the town remains a vibrant commercial and trading centre, much as it has always been over the last two thousand years and all the changes that have come and gone in between; and that in essence is the story of Perth then, now and into the future.

“Go on great Tay, through fields, towns and through Perth; whose wealth supports the kingdom”

This article was written by David McNicoll, who runs Vacation Scotland; a travel company specialising in tours and packages to Scotland. For more information on their services – http://www.vacationscotland.biz

Camping is about getting away from it all, and there are few places that offer as many places to truly escape than Scotland. Home to some of the most remote campsites in the whole of the UK, the Highlands, Islands and Lowlands of Scotland have campsites to suit every camper, whether you’re looking for a relaxing break or active holiday.

Camping holidays are the best way to experience the awesome scenery that Scotland has to offer. With the freedom to camp almost anywhere, you can bring your tent, touring caravan or motor home to explore. Or for a truly relaxing break, choose from one of the country’s many holiday parks and rent your own lodge or luxury caravan home. If you plan on making it a regular trip, Park Resorts offer caravans for sale UK and Scotland-wide for an affordable holiday home option.

For those looking to camp out under the canvas and experience true tranquillity, here are just a handful of some of the most beautiful and remote Scottish campsite locations to give you some holiday inspiration.

Glenbrittle, Isle of Skye

There are few better places to escape the rat race than the Scottish Islands. The Glenbrittle site is set at the foot of the Black Cuillins on the shore of Loch Brittle, allowing you to camp right on the beach. With fabulous walking and climbing routes right on your doorstep, you can relax after a long hike with a wee dram at the nearby Talisker Distillery too.

Cashel, Loch Lomond

One of Scotland’s most famous landmarks, Loch Lomond is a haven that allows you so many activity options. The Cashel site is located right on the shore, so you can launch boats directly from the site and explore the Loch’s many small islands. Wile away the hours walking through the Queen Elizabeth Forest Park, or take the short bus ride or car drive to nearby Glasgow for a taste of bustling Scottish culture at its finest.

Badrallach, Dundonnell, Ross-shire

If watersports are your thing, then Badrallach has a range of fantastic facilities on offer. Located on the Scoraig peninsula by the shores of Little Loch Broom, this picturesque little campsite offers mountain bike, kayak and beach kart hire, as well as Shetland sail boat hire.

Strathfillan Wigwams, Auchtertyre, Crianlarich

For something a little different, leave your tent at home and spend a night under the stars in one of Strathfillan’s wooden wigwams. Stunning mountain views over the West Highland Way await you on your return from a day in the hills, with a cosy and comfortable bed to look forward to in this quaint and quirky campsite.

This year, why not get away from the crowds to Dumfries and Galloway? The Southwest corner of Scotland is probably one of the country’s best kept secrets, yet it boasts some stunning scenery, including, reputedly, more lakes than the better known English Lake District, a wealth of history, including prehistoric standing stones, Norman castles and memorials to martyred Covenanters, and some fantastic wildlife, from red kites, ospreys and wild geese to red squirrels, red deer and wild goats! Garden lovers will find plenty of interest at places such as Threave, Castle Kennedy and the Royal Botanic Gardens at Logan, while star-gazers will want to sample the joys of one of the world’s few Dark Sky Parks in the Galloway Forest. Scotland’s national poet, Robert Burns, lived for many years in Dumfries and worked as an excise man along the Solway coast, while Peter Pan was invented in the region’s capital, and the more recent authors Gavin Maxwell and Ian Niall were natives of the region, so it is fitting that Wigtown is now designated Scotland’s Booktown, hosting a thriving Book Festival every Autumn. The quaint old county town of Kirkcudbright is celebrated as the Artist’s Town, with a number of galleries to visit, not to mention the annual Spring Fling open studio events across the region.  And don’t forget to sample some of the fantastic local produce, recently featured on ITV’s ‘Countrywise Kitchen’, including beef from the unique Belted Galloway cattle, salt marsh lamb,  venison, smoked salmon and award-winning Loch Arthur cheeses.

Idle Hour Holidays was set up in 2006 when owners Anthony and Joseph Duncalf moved to the area from Yorkshire. We now offer a choice of two four-star self-catering cottages, close to the beautiful Solway coast, both of which offer an ideal base to explore all the region has to offer.

 ‘Forest Edge’, in a quiet location on the edge of the small town of Dalbeattie, in the East of the region, is a traditional granite cottage, tastefully extended and modernised to accommodate up to four people comfortably in one double and one twin bedroom. The cosy lounge has an open fire to help you unwind after a busy day exploring all the area has to offer.  The cottage is just a ten minute drive from the Colvend Coast – designated a National Scenic Area and sometimes known as the Solway Riviera – with picturesque villages, sandy beaches and cliff-top walks, while the rugged  Galloway Hills are within easy reach, offering spectacular scenery and some challenging walks. Visit historic Caerlaverock Castle, explore the romantic ruins of Dundrennan Abbey (where Mary Queen of Scots spent her last night on Scottish soil), go water skiing on nearby Loch Ken, or just unwind in the lovely cottage-style garden, backing onto acres of unspoilt woodland, forming part of the famous 7Stanes mountain-biking network. Guests also enjoy substantial discounts at nearby Dalbeattie Golf Club.

Further West, ‘Water’s Edge’ is a stylish modern townhouse, forming part of a tasteful new development on the harbour side of the sleepy fishing village of Garlieston in the Galloway Machars. The property itself is bright and spacious, with one twin bedroom and one double – en suite with a balcony enjoying stunning views across the bay to the old village and the hills beyond.  With some lovely coastal walks starting right from the front door, this is a great place to escape the rat race and get away from it all. Visit the Mull of Galloway (Scotland’s most southerly point, with stunning views across to Ireland), sample the local whisky at Bladnoch Distillery, or explore the ruins of nearby Whithorn Priory, the earliest Christian settlement in Scotland, founded by St Ninian.  Don’t forget to visit the prehistoric standing stones at Torhousekie and Drumtrodden, and the chambered burial cairn at Cairn Holy, near Newton Stewart. With a free boat park a stone’s throw from the property, you can even bring your boat and explore the coastline by sea!

Both our properties are fitted out to a high standard, rated 4 Star by Welcome Cottages, offering a comfortable home from home to make your visit to this idyllic area an enjoyable experience.  Up to two dogs are welcome at a small extra charge, and we can provide a child’s cot and high chair on request.  Both cottages are open all year round, with prices for a week’s stay starting at £280, with short breaks of 3 or 4 nights available out of season, from £60 per night, with special discounts available from time to time. Full details can be found at our website – www.idlehourholidays.co.uk – and we would be delighted to answer any particular queries you may have, and hope to have the pleasure of sharing the joys of this lovely part of the world with you very soon!